Pastas and Noodles and couscous
Pastas and Noodles and couscous, dumplings and wontons, macaroni, rigatoni, spaghetti, tubetti, vermicelli, fettucini—this is only a few of the many varieties, the most diverse food made from grain. Preparation of all types begin with a dough, or paste, made by mixing ground grain or flour and liquid. The ingredients, their proportions, and the methods of mixing and shaping the dough all are variables.
Most Western noodles are made from finely ground wheat flour. Good-quality dried ones from wheat flour are customarily made from durum semolina. Many Oriental types are based on rice flour or starches derived from potatoes, beans or even acorns. The dough may be colored and/or flavored with vegetables, such as spinach, peppers, or tomatoes, and formed in many ways. Once shaped, the noodles can be used fresh, but can also be dried and stored.
All share certain characteristics: flavor that is subtle and texture that is tenderly firm. Noodles are perfect vehicles to be used in combination with almost any other food. Some are coated with sauces; some mixed with meat, seafood, vegetable and cheese; and some give body to soups.
Noodle shapes have been made commercially in Italy since about 1400, and in the United States since 1848. By extruding dough through dies, or molds, manufacturers have created hundreds of forms. Most shapes can be used interchangeably to vary the appearance of differing dishes. As a rule, twisted and curved shapes are used with meaty sauces, as they trap more chunky particles than strands and ribbons do. The wide bands of lasagna are best reserved for layered casseroles, the broad tubes of manicotti for filling.
Cooking and Draining Pasta
Noodles must be cooked in a large quantity of rapidly boiling water so that individual pieces can float freely; otherwise they will stick together in a gummy mass, and cook unevenly. Allow 4 quarts of water for each pound. Never try to boil more than 2 pounds at a time. It will not cook or drain properly.
Oil should not be added to the cooking water. It does not prevent the pieces from sticking together, but only coats the noodles, preventing it from fully absorbing the sauce after draining. When draining, reserve at least half a cup of the cooking water. The noodles will continue to absorb moisture after draining, and it is often necessary to add some of the water to the serving bowl so that sauce and noodles combine well.
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